Is there a culture en la casa?

I'm not sure if cultures can be mapped on to nation states very accurately at all. There seems to be much more variation within a nation than between nations. Regional differences, subcultures, countercultures, migration, all that stuff. And I was only there for three and a half weeks. But in the interests of er... general interest, permit me to make perhaps three generalisations about the way some of the people behave some of the time in some parts of Spain.

1) There is a definite melting of some of the barriers between strangers. People who had just met me patted me on the shoulder, offered their cheeks to be kissed, (including a burly Andalucian). Everywhere I have travelled I have found strangers to talk to, but it definitely seemed easier, or more relaxed in Spain than in the UK. A Portugese traveller I met in Germany thought this was an Iberian thing "people here (in Germany) want to help you, but they give you space, I like it."

2) People don't speak English, generally. This surprised me. For some reason I had assumed everyone in Europe had roughly the same level of English that one finds in the European travellers to New Zealand. Far from it. As my friend Mete put it "some kids in the Netherlands speak better English than Kiwi kids" while some towns in Spain I doubt I could find a English sentence if I tried.

I remember, in Asturias, I was out in a bar, and a young guy heard me speak a few words of my mother tongue. He bounded over to our table.... "Hello!" he gushed, "I heard you speaking English... I want to practice but I can't... this is f###ing Spain!" Mis amigos did not warm to him, and the conversation did not go much further.

3) Time is different. Nine or ten in the morning is a good time to go to work, and two is a good time to have lunch, maybe sleep a little (not too long or one wakes up groggy) 4 or 5 is a good time to start work and 8 is knock-off time. Dinner can happen between 10 and 12, after which you might go out to a bar, and then do it all again.

I like my seven or so hours sleep, so took advantadge of everything shutting around three and often had a siesta... many don't and just seem to function on less sleep. Maybe that explains the kind of shuffling laziness that seems to pervade Spain. Not that I'm complaining - it does seem to be a nice way to live. Bear in mind, however that I did visit during vacaciones. The Spanish seem to take holidays a little more er... seriously... than we do. Lots of shops, restaurants and other businesses were closed for vacaciones. My favourite 'closed for vacaciones' sign was on what seemed to be the only hotel in Balaguer.

Lived, travelled in Spain? Have a view on 'Spanish culture' Your comments, as always, are very welcome.

Balaguer

I tried to think of a clever title for this post, but I think the name of the town I am staying wins on points for exoticness.

Estoy en España. (I am in Spain). Sweat is usually pasted across my forehead, but I have managed to avoid the 50 degree heat in Seville by arriving in Barcelona, in the relatively temperate ´communidad´ of Cataluña

In Cataluña the native language is Catalan, and it was officially banned during the days (ahem, decades) of Franco´s rule. Since Franco died each ´communidad´or region has become more autonomous... as the graffito here says: ´Cataluña no es España´

This means Cataluña is now officially bilingual, which is great for the local culture, but not so good for me - when locals speak Catalan, I can understand maybe one word in twenty. And I can´t read the plaques! But people are happy to hablar Español, and I have many conversations... not just about about directions to the nearest camping/internet/amazing-park-with-buildings-and-sculptures designed by Antonio Gaudi (which are given cheerfully, but are usually very brief and vague). I can´t get very conceptual though, and if I´m tired or stressed I hope that the person I´m talking to speaks my mother tongue.

Barcelona was great, but I´m very pleased to be in the countryside. For one thing, I´m no longer surrounded by the tourists that flock to the coast from other parts of Europe. It´s also a blessing to get my hands in the earth. As well as being a permaculturist(?) my host Jordi here is a true international. He belongs to three hosting organisations, is fanatical about Esperanto (`the language of a world without borders`) and with the help of his visitors, has compiled a massive chart with a dozen sample phrases from 50 languages. (yup, maori´s there). Muy bueno.

Another list
Things I like about España

+ The storks that build their nests on buildings and perch on TV aerials in Balaguer.
+ The way the rocks rise up out of the dry earth everywhere like giant tombstones.
Everything closing at 2 in the afternoon for siesta. (even though that´s more of a southern thing)
+ Flamenco (played for tourists at our campsite... a nice change from the Busta Rhymes and Beegees I have been hearing elsewhere in Spain)
+ Paella. Mmmmmmmm... prawny.
+ The friendly old people that are always sitting outside in the sun.
+ Hand expressions. Waving of hands. It´s not just a carictature.

Things I have grown accustomed to

Seeing Oaks as natives, Sycamores as noxious weeds
Seeing Red Squirrels as natives, Grey ones as noxious weeds

Everyone here seeing themselves as natives, Chavs as noxious weeds