Balaguer

I tried to think of a clever title for this post, but I think the name of the town I am staying wins on points for exoticness.

Estoy en España. (I am in Spain). Sweat is usually pasted across my forehead, but I have managed to avoid the 50 degree heat in Seville by arriving in Barcelona, in the relatively temperate ´communidad´ of Cataluña

In Cataluña the native language is Catalan, and it was officially banned during the days (ahem, decades) of Franco´s rule. Since Franco died each ´communidad´or region has become more autonomous... as the graffito here says: ´Cataluña no es España´

This means Cataluña is now officially bilingual, which is great for the local culture, but not so good for me - when locals speak Catalan, I can understand maybe one word in twenty. And I can´t read the plaques! But people are happy to hablar Español, and I have many conversations... not just about about directions to the nearest camping/internet/amazing-park-with-buildings-and-sculptures designed by Antonio Gaudi (which are given cheerfully, but are usually very brief and vague). I can´t get very conceptual though, and if I´m tired or stressed I hope that the person I´m talking to speaks my mother tongue.

Barcelona was great, but I´m very pleased to be in the countryside. For one thing, I´m no longer surrounded by the tourists that flock to the coast from other parts of Europe. It´s also a blessing to get my hands in the earth. As well as being a permaculturist(?) my host Jordi here is a true international. He belongs to three hosting organisations, is fanatical about Esperanto (`the language of a world without borders`) and with the help of his visitors, has compiled a massive chart with a dozen sample phrases from 50 languages. (yup, maori´s there). Muy bueno.

Another list
Things I like about España

+ The storks that build their nests on buildings and perch on TV aerials in Balaguer.
+ The way the rocks rise up out of the dry earth everywhere like giant tombstones.
Everything closing at 2 in the afternoon for siesta. (even though that´s more of a southern thing)
+ Flamenco (played for tourists at our campsite... a nice change from the Busta Rhymes and Beegees I have been hearing elsewhere in Spain)
+ Paella. Mmmmmmmm... prawny.
+ The friendly old people that are always sitting outside in the sun.
+ Hand expressions. Waving of hands. It´s not just a carictature.