Traveller's tales...I'm a kiwi lad working my way around the world visiting family, making new friends and gazing at old stuff and wild stuff. I'm a writer, so I'm writing about it.

Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Hurdling the Language Barrier.

Comfortably back in a country where I can speak (almost) my mother tongue, where visiting the library provides an embarrasment of riches, I reflect a bit on the struggles and joys of learning French in France.

Bravo for the experience of going somewhere where you don't speak the language, and trying to learn from scratch. I'd love to write about this in French, but two months with little writing practice... I'd be here all night!

France, was in some ways an easy place to try my experiment. For one, not many people speak english, and even less like to. Lots of opportunity to practice speaking. Second, there is the abundance of French words (debut, hotel, sautee...) and phrases (de ja vu, haute cuisine, en passant...) that have passed into English. I learned quickly however that there are 'false friends' - 'Chef' for instance means not only the one who cooks, but any sort of boss, a 'crayon' denotes a pencil, and the 'curiosities' of an area can be major attractions.

The huge gulf between spelling and pronunciation also provides a barrier for the cold-start immersion learner. To try to hurdle it, I taught myself a few phonetical symbols to get my head around the French vowels and dipthongs.



Much to the delight of my friends, I could never master the 'r' sound. When I tried to imitate the strange growling gurgle of my teachers, I would usually end up sounding like I was trying to throw up. Some days I practiced the sound, but the motion of pulling my tounge downward inside my mouth caused me to feel nauseous!

Why do I like the language? Well, as popularly observed, there is the sexy, exotic sound to it, but that impression faded the more I learnt (perhaps it was because many of my early sentences were about dumping rotten grapes into a huge trailer). It seems like a powerful language, like Arabic, where one is capable of both the most soothing sounds and equally harsh guttural utterances.

Then there is the great French literature... I aspire to, but may never read Moliere, Apollonaire, Proudhon, Derrida (pictured), Focault, Rosseau... the list could go on and on. But at least I can say I can enjoy and understand the mighty Asterix in the language it was written in. Mais oui! Ah yes.>



It makes sense to me too, to 'miss out' the ends of words as the French do. In conversation, any ambiguous meaning can be sifted through other cues, and so shortening words is no real problem. In print, however, it makes sense to have the full word.

And I'm not sure whether it was just mon amis, the company I was with, but I learned many colourful phrases. To be egotistical is to have 'the melon', presumably for a head. To be really hungry is to have 'les croc', to have fangs, or 'le dalle', a stone block. Curiously, modern urban French slang involves switching the phonemes in certain words, an itbay like igpay atinlay. So 'bizarre' becomes 'zarrebi'.

Can I speak French now? Not really. Could I return to France and use my melange of French, hand signs and the odd stray word of Spanish to make myself understood about day to day matters, even make people laugh with me, not at me, and understand someone who speaks slowly and clearly? Yes. One thing I believe now is that communication depends on patience and creativity much more than simple language profiency. So why learn other languages at all? To be able to say "Ils sont fous ces romains"*, of course.


*These romans are crazy

Friday, November 2, 2007

Unexpectedly


I did not intend to go to Rouen. I'm glad I did. It is pretty and rich in history.

It has more cathedrals per square inch than anywhere else I have been. The one pictured was the tallest building in the world between 1876 and 1880.

I busk by the ruins of the building where Joan of Arc was executed.



I find a quote on a sculpture

'O Jeanne, sans sepulchre et sans portrait. Toi qui savais que le tombeau des heros est le coeur des vivants' O Joan, without a sepulchre and without a portrait. You know that the tomb of heroes is the heart of the living. - Andre Malraux.

Drunk French youths buy me a chocolatine for breakfast, and give me the nickname 'solamente' (solitary)

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Things I learned in Paris


1) There are three types of trains in France with three types of cycle policy

a) the TGV - the high speed trains, (Train Grand Vitesse). Using them is unavoidable on some routes. The guards may fine you or threaten to throw your bicycle off the train if they find you with such contraband luggage. I ask why this is so. 'French Law' says one. Why though? 'It is forbidden' he repeats. Someone else tells me my bicycle is more dangerous than the massive sacks others are carrying. 'someone could put their leg through it'. Right.

b) the TER run on the provincial services. They love bikes.

c)the CoRails have an ostensible no-bike policy but will let you take bikes, I hear, if you wrap the item up and make it not look like a bike.

I have a vivid memory of sprinting around the Paris St Lazare (pictured, above, by Monet) station wrapping up my bike in salvaged clear polythene (no one would sell me single rubbish bags, only packs of twenty for more money than I possessed, ripping open salvaged hairties to help bind my package, ready for the last train to Rouen. In the end no-one even asked for my ticket.

2) The magnetic strip on your visa card can fail, leaving you with just 25 euros* to get back to the UK. I found nowhere I could get money out with just the card number and the right ID. Internet booking seems promising but it seems you have to swipe your card to pick up the tickets! Luckily....

3) Fellow travellers will lend you 5 euros to help you buy a ticket if they stand in line with you, watching and waiting that you don't run off and spend it on meths.

4) You can't sleep in French train stations. Unlike the hospitable Frankfurt train station, they close from 1am to 5am.

5) It's hard to do touristy things when you are finding out the above.

*1 Euro = 2 NZ$ approx.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Jealousy antidote






People sometimes express envy of my wanderings. Not surprising, I mainly write about the good things. Here's a bad day. It includes:
Biking through what used to be malarial wetlands, transformed by the order of Napoleon III to boringly spooky pine plantations.

Finding the 'piste cyclable' (cyclable road) is a cracked pavement, littered with branches that break two of my spokes.

Knocking over the camp stove and tipping hot stew onto my sock. Without access to running water, this results in a burnt ankle.


So, for me, please sleep snug in your cosy little homes.

This is probably the....


Coolest. Bridge. Ever.




(Me and William tried to bike to Peche Merle to see more prehistoric cave wonders, but didn't make it. Instead, we stopped at Cahors with the featured Pont Valentre. It was built in the 14th Century and was never attacked. C'est normal. (thats not that suprising))

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Vendange poems (drafts)











Vendange (grape harvest) number 1 - Landiras

Team of twenty
walking ranges of Merlot
secateurs - snip, snip
graps fall to les paniers
the porteur, straining in sud-ouest sun
grapes on his back,
loaded heavy as a beast


Dix-sept a la table pour dejenuer
Parlons francais, francais, francais
Lo espagnole et moi sommes silencieux

(seventeen at the table for lunch
they speak french, french, french
me and the spanish girl are silent)

#####################################################################

Vendange #2 - Sauterne

We are working for unknowns
pas nourri ni lodgè*

we harvest grapes with mould as grey as the mist°
that rises every morning

as a porteur climbs to empty his hotte
the ladder slides from under his legs
his chest bears the weight of the grapes
and presses against the steel edge of the trailer

Now he groans alone on the grass
we keep working.

*without food or lodging: the new convention for vendange work
°Sauterne wine made from grapes, harvested late with 'the noble rot' which is meant to concentrate the sugars. It is a very sweet wine.

Friday, October 5, 2007

Ancient



Seeing the prehistoric cave art was worth a hundred bike rides up the Dordogne River, it was even worth the risk of 'feeling like a man who has been a tourist too long'. This is where words fall short, and all the pictures I see of the cave painting totally fail to convey the wonder, mystery and the sheer power of these artworks. Artworks they definitely are, beautiful forms made with masterful techniques using the contours of the cave walls. One painting of a bison in Font de Gaume uses a sort of fractured perspective. Apparently when Picasso saw it he said, "I did not invent cubism, then"




At the time of the cave paintings, about 15 000 BCE, the population of 'France' was probably around 10 000 people.


Font de Gaume is interesting for another reason. People were wandering in and out of the cave for years last century before anyone realsied there were faded pictures on the walls. There is even graffiti on the backs of one of the 80-odd bison

More impressive though, than the the beautiful paintings is the feeling of real history. There is evidence that this area has been lived in by Homo erectus, the Neanderthals as well as the Cro Magnon. It was the Cro Magnon though, who, over a few millenia, decorated a dozen or so deep caves, some rock shelters and perhaps countless other places.

Meeting Petr the Czech with perfect English (Dundee accent) helps me understand a bit more context, as well as sharing a homely dinner in the rain at the Les Eysies campground. Petr has been "flint knapping" - making tools from stone - for years, and, like Ronald Wright, sees the shift from these hunter-gatherer cultures to those based on farming as a bit of a backward step. He also worries about the future of our fossil fuel-intensive civilisation. 'We should be turning oil into foodstuffs' he says, 'instead of burning it'.

I ration myself to a couple of caves, and spend the rest of my time biking around the limestone valleys, passing the locked archaeological sites, imagining this landscape: stripped bare of trees with glacial cold, and peopled twenty thousand generations ago.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Bonne Route




I am in a small town Lilande, on the Dordogne river.

Why? You may have read about my weariness of trains and my longing for the bike. Well, with my first income for several months on the cards (Tomas jacked me up with the sweet wine harvest job) I splashed out on a bike, and locks, and rad panniers that turn into a backpack and two bags.

And so I venture forth into Acquitaine, self contained, dodging the rain, feeling a little pain, (eating le pain, but that doesn't rhyme, I am discovering)

I'm intrigued by the prospect of the river valley turning into a gorge; much more so by the fact that this area is positively chokka with Neaderthal and Cro Magnon caves with their paintings and etchings and so forth. So I'm gonna go see them, of course. When I was little I dreamed about finding dinosaur footprints in hardened mud somewhere: this, I think, might be even more astounding.

On the other hand maybe I will feel like a man who has been a tourist for too long.




So far on the trip I have had two lovely encounters. One was a French couple inviting me into their house to watch the All Blacks vs Scotland, accompanied by sausage, bread, cheese, beer, then chickpeas, onions, barely cooked meat, wine, more bread, more cheese. Jaques was keen to practice his English "What do you think of the organisation of the cup?". Joele was more hardcore. "in my house," she said (in French), "you speak French". So I get frustrated and manage a few sentences an hour, but she teaches me a Moliere quote À vaincre sans péril on triomphe sans gloire.

In Sante Foy de Grande I meet Matt, an English guy who is in the middle of a years stay at Plum Village, a Buddhist community founded by Thich Nat Hanh. Worldly and kind, he is a fascinating character. I hope I see him again, perhaps when he is travelling the world as a clown.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Salut!



I'm in Bordeaux, the city (by the way, if you are french, the region we call 'Bordeaux' is called 'Gironde') staying with the charming Tomas and Eloise, who I met in Cudillero in Espana.

I love learning French. I finally get to use my nasal twang for some real phonemes!

I have just spent a couple of hours writing up my late August travels. Tonight we will go to sit by the vast tidal Garonne (maybe I will see some more Coypu) and probably drink red wine and eat pain et fromage (bread and cheese). Voila!

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Report of voyage Madrid to Frankfurt


The mission: hitchike from Madrid to Frankfurt

The reason: attend a mini Zen retreat (five participants, three days, lots of breathing), meet Europeans, not spend squillions on buses and trains.

The timeframe: Wednesday 22nd August to Tuesday 28th August

The logistics: Because most people going long distances are on one of the many many motorways, the best hitching spots seem to be busy petrol stations or tollgates. Asking people directly for rides is quite a nice change from the old thumb too

Format of report: There is a little game called 'The Rose and the Thorn' I used to play with my flatmates in Dunedin. Everyone selects one 'rose' qnd one 'thorn' experience from their day.

Day One: Wednesday 22nd August
Thorn - Walking to the 'Madrid Lighthouse' in 30 degree heat for a rare ariel view of the city before I left only to find it closed until further notice.

Rose - Understanding the Spanish of Jesus the Spanish truck driver as he explained to me about the windfarm (200 turbines, popular with the public) we were passing as we neared Zaragosa en route to Barcelona.



Day Two: Thursday 23rd August

Rose: Crossing the border between Spain and France at the South-East end of the Pyrenees. I'm sad to leave Spain but I love the fact we just drive straight through as if the border was as intangible as a line of dust. I love the EU!

Thorn: The intense heat and rattling din of Tomas the German's Mercedes truck. He is a great guy, a horse breeder who started his own company to publish his thesis, but that cab was torture. I had to get out at Nimes. I'm making good time anyway.

Day Three: Friday 24th August

Thorn: Again it is a goodbye, this time to Migal the Czech, another truck driver by trade, on a mammoth road trip from his home in Marseilles to a town beginning with 'B', past Prague to visit his family. We share very little spoken language but he is great company. He let me navigate.

Roses: The massive broadleaf forests around Southeast France and the Rhone valley are a very pleasant surprise. And round about 11pm, my ride drops me at Frankfurt airport for a train to the city. I made it... early!

Thanks to the wonderful http://www.hitchwiki.org for giving me both general tips and advice for getting out of Madrid.