On leaning.

With the others heading back to their lives in the UK, I decide to be a tourist in Italy for another week or so, before making my way East to Bordeaux, to see friends and cut grapes. First stop is the nearby Pisa. The tower is cool. The other tourists are spectacular. At any one time, I can see at least three different individuals taking what one blogger calls the Obligatory-Dorky-Hold-up-The-Tower Photo.

Tourist information differs as to when the lean first happened. The 'Rough Guide' states that the lean was detected within a few years of the commencement of building, back in the twelth century, resulting in a long hiatus. The official plaque attributes the hiatus to 'unkwnown reasons' and implies the lean only began much later. Wikipedia agrees in part with the Rough Guide, stating that the lean was first noticed in 1178, when the tower was only five years old with three of a final eight levels completed. When building recommenced a century later after Pisa-Genoan wars a century later, the lean was (over)compensated for and the tower started leaning the direction it does today. Needless to say, if you are in Pisa, it's worth a look. The other buildings in Piazza dei Miracoli or "Square of Miracles" aren't too shabby either.



After an hour trying to hitchike out of a slightly grimy Pisa I give up and take the next train south to Rome. On the train I meet a young Roman student with an egyptian background and accent. Our conversation consists of him listing the English writers he likes. The romantics, the Modernists. He quotes Eliot's 'Hollow Men' for me. He doesn't like Bertrand Russell. Too analytical.

Lists have served me well for crossing the language barrier. One doesn't need translation, let alone grammar when listing proper names. He takes an interest in the little Pema Chodron book I carry and I teach him a simple meditation technique. It is a surreal experience, zooming accross the plains towards a city that was founded before humans got to Aotearoa, meditating with a new friend in an otherwise empty carriage.

It's after 2200 when we get to Rome and I half-hope my buddy will offer me a place to stay. Nope. On my own again.