"No!" day

"Was it worth leaving Belgrade for this?" Agneta is embarrased to be at the "Oxi (No) Day parade. "Don't tell anyone I am here."

October 28 is the date of Prime minister Metataxas' probably apocryphal one word reply to Mussolini's ultimatum. My guidebook mentioned folk dancing, so I rushed to get to Greece in time. There was a little dancing, but we missed it. What we did see was a little more disturbing. Dozens of squads of school children of all ages, in uniform (only worn for the day) marching straight-armed behind a proudly waved Greek flag.

Two things surprise me about Greece as soon as I arrive. One is the level of english. Quite different from other mediterranean countries I have visited, everyone speaks amazing english. As usual in such countries, most American movies are shown with subtitles. Cause or symptom, of language proficiency? Both I expect.

The other is the level of nationalism. The Oxi Day parade we went to was the small 'academic' one. The main one involved a parade of, among other things tanks. There's prejudice and xenophobia too. Albanians, in particular, are a target. Usually the best student in the school carries the flag for Oxi day. If they are Albanian immigrants, however, they may be barred.



Another example. I'm listening to a greek hip-hop album. "They started out anarchist" says Agneta. Then in their second album they went mad about Ancient Greece." I ask her what she means. "Well, they rap in ancient greek, and they are saying that, because of our past, we are the best country in the world".

At dinner in a Taverna, Dimitrious expands on this theme. "You know the story about the Argo, Jason's ship?" It was meant to go at the speed of thought. Some people, stupid people, actually believe that happened, and they believe Greece is absolutely the best.